What is the Niello Technique?

Late 19th-century Russian silver and niello snuff box, image courtesy of Mozeris Fine Antiques

The niello technique is a historical jewellery-making process that dates back thousands of years and involves filling engraved or etched designs on metal surfaces with a black alloy, typically composed of sulphur, copper, silver, and lead. When heated, this alloy melts into the engraved design, creating a striking contrast against the polished metal surface, often silver or gold. The result is a bold, blackened detail that enhances the intricacy of the pattern, making it an attractive choice for unique, high-quality pieces.

History of the Niello Technique

Antique traditional Armenian ladies’ silver and niello belt buckle, 1897 - 1910, image corutesy of Mozeris Fine Antiques

The origins of niello can be traced to the Roman Empire and later adopted by Byzantine and medieval European artisans. This technique became especially popular in the Middle Ages when jewellers in Italy, Russia, and other parts of Europe used it to create intricate designs on rings, brooches, and religious items. Each region brought its own flavour to the technique, resulting in distinctive styles that vary from culture to culture.