Victorian Era 1837 to 1901 History
The Victorian era, spanning from 1837 to 1901, was not just a time but a canvas of societal transformation and cultural renaissance. Under Queen Victoria's reign, Britain witnessed immense growth and change, profoundly shaping its social, political, and artistic landscapes. This period saw the flowering of the industrial revolution, which brought about significant technological advancements and a shift in societal norms and aesthetics. Jewellery during this time became an emblem of personal and societal identity, reflecting the values, trends, and advancements of the era.
People enjoying a dinner party after visiting Ascot. Date: 1871
Image Source: Adobe Stock
The Essence of Victorian Jewellery: Design and Influence
Victorian jewellery is characterized by its ornate designs, intricate craftsmanship, and symbolic significance. During this era, jewellery transcended its role as mere decoration to become a means of personal expression and social commentary. The designs often featured motifs from nature, such as flowers, birds, and serpents, symbolizing love, wisdom, and eternity. The death of Prince Albert in 1861 ushered in the popularity of mourning jewellery, marked by the use of black materials like jet and onyx. This period also saw the rise of renowned designers who left a lasting impact on the craft.
Technological Advancements: Impact on Jewellery Making
The industrial revolution brought significant changes to the production of jewellery. The introduction of steam-powered machinery and new metalworking techniques allowed for the mass production of intricate designs. This democratized jewellery, making it more accessible to the burgeoning middle class. The era saw the use of new materials like aluminium and the popularisation of electroplating, which enabled jewellers to create affordable yet exquisite pieces.
Victorian Technology & Machinery
Image Source: Victorian Web
Society and Culture: Fashion and Social Classes
Victorian society was structured and hierarchical, with distinct class divisions that were often reflected in the jewellery people wore. The upper classes flaunted elaborate pieces set with precious stones, while the middle classes favoured less expensive but equally fashionable items. Jewellery also played a significant role in Victorian fashion, complementing the elaborate dress styles of the era. It was not just an accessory but a statement of one's social standing and wealth.
Victorian Lifestyle
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Popular Victorian Jewellery Items: Brooches, Lockets, and Cameos
Brooches, lockets, and cameos were staples of Victorian jewellery, each holding special significance. Brooches were often used to secure clothing but also served as a canvas for intricate designs and sentimental motifs. Lockets, frequently worn around the neck, held portraits or locks of hair from loved ones, serving as personal mementoes. Cameos, carved from shell or stone, depicted scenes from mythology or portraits, and were highly prized for their artistry.
Crafting Victorian Era Jewellery: Materials and Techniques
The Victorian era saw a diverse range of materials and techniques in jewellery making. Gold was the predominant metal, often alloyed to achieve different colours. The period also saw a resurgence in the use of silver. Gemstones like diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires were highly sought after, but semi-precious stones like opal, garnet, and amethyst were also popular. Skilled artisans employed techniques like filigree, engraving, and repoussé to create intricate and detailed pieces.
Messages in Victorian Jewellery: Symbolism and Sentiments
Victorian jewellery was laden with symbolism and hidden meanings. Flowers, birds, and insects were not just decorative elements but conveyed messages of love, fidelity, and remembrance. Mourning jewellery, a significant trend of the era, used symbols like weeping willows and urns to express grief and remembrance. This symbolism made Victorian jewellery deeply personal and reflective of the wearer's emotions and experiences.
Victorian Era's Impact on Modern Fashion
The influence of Victorian-era jewellery on contemporary fashion is profound and multifaceted. Modern designers frequently draw inspiration from the intricate designs, romantic motifs, and rich symbolism characteristic of the Victorian era. This profound influence manifests in various facets of contemporary fashion, from high-end couture to everyday wear, resonating with a modern audience while paying homage to the past.
Many high fashion designers have integrated Victorian influences into their collections. For instance, Alexander McQueen's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection showcased pieces reminiscent of Victorian mourning wear, with elaborate lace, high collars, and detailed embroidery. Similarly, Dolce & Gabbana's collections often feature corsetry, lace, and floral motifs, echoing the romanticism of the Victorian era.
Another example is Vivienne Westwood, a designer known for blending historical elements with modern design. Her works often incorporate Victorian styles, seen in her use of crinolines, bustles, and tailored jackets, reimagined for a contemporary audience.
An Alexander McQueen dress designed by Sarah Burton, Autumn 2019 collection
Image Source: Wikipedia
Notable Victorian Jewellery: Famous Pieces and Their Stories
The Victorian era was marked by an array of exquisite and historically significant pieces of jewellery, many of which were associated with Queen Victoria herself and other notable figures of the time. These pieces not only exemplify the craftsmanship of the era but also carry rich histories and stories that reflect the cultural and social milieu of the time.
Queen Victoria's Coronation Necklace
One of the most iconic pieces of the era is Queen Victoria's Coronation Necklace. Crafted in 1858 by Garrard, the then Crown Jeweller, this stunning piece was created for the coronation of Queen Victoria. Made of 28 old-cut diamonds set in silver and gold, the necklace features a detachable, large oval sapphire and diamond pendant. It symbolised the wealth and power of the British monarchy and was subsequently worn by queens for their coronations, making it a piece steeped in tradition and royal heritage.
Image Source: Wikipedia
The Koh-i-Noor Diamond
The Koh-i-Noor diamond is another legendary piece from the Victorian era, albeit with a more contentious history. Originally from India, this 105.6-carat diamond was claimed by the British during the colonial era and became part of the Crown Jewels. It was recut by Prince Albert in a move to increase its brilliance and was eventually set into the crown of Queen Alexandra, Queen Consort of Edward VII. The diamond's history is a testament to the era's colonial undertakings and remains a subject of international intrigue and debate.
Image Source: Wikipedia
The Prince Albert Brooch
The Prince Albert Brooch is a sentimental piece gifted by Prince Albert to Queen Victoria in 1840, on the eve of their wedding. This sapphire and diamond brooch exemplified the romantic nature of the Victorian era and Queen Victoria's personal taste. The brooch, which features a large oval sapphire surrounded by diamonds, became a favourite of the queen, who wore it regularly. It represented not just the fashion of the time but also the deep personal love story between Victoria and Albert.
Prince Albert Sapphire Brooch
Image Source: Royal Watcher Blog
Victorian Era in Creative Expressions: Art and Literature
The Victorian era, renowned for its distinctive cultural and artistic expressions, left an indelible mark on both art and literature. During this period, jewellery was not merely a fashion statement but also a powerful symbol, often used by artists and writers to convey deeper meanings, character nuances, and societal commentary. This profound integration of jewellery in creative works reflects the era's complex interplay between aesthetics, social norms, and personal identity.
Jewellery in Victorian Painting
Victorian paintings often depicted figures adorned with jewellery, each piece carefully chosen to reflect the subject's status, character, or the painting's overall mood. For example, in many of Pre-Raphaelite artist Dante Gabriel Rossetti's works, such as "Proserpine" and "The Beloved," jewellery is used to symbolise various themes such as love, captivity, and beauty. These paintings often featured women wearing intricate necklaces and headpieces, which not only added to the visual appeal but also served to convey the subject's emotional state or societal position.
Another notable example is the work of John Everett Millais, whose painting "Ophelia" shows the character adorned with floral garlands, embodying innocence and the tragic beauty associated with her character in Shakespeare's "Hamlet". The use of these natural elements as jewellery-like adornments highlights the Pre-Raphaelite fascination with nature and emotion.
Jewellery in Victorian Literature
In literature, Victorian authors used jewellery as a motif to explore themes such as wealth, morality, and identity. Charles Dickens, in his novel "Great Expectations," uses Miss Havisham's decaying wedding dress and jewellery to symbolise her stagnation in time and her inability to move past her jilted love. The jewellery here serves as a poignant reminder of her lost youth and unfulfilled desires.
Similarly, in Charlotte Brontë's "Jane Eyre," the protagonist's plain appearance, contrasted with the opulent jewellery of her rival Blanche Ingram, highlights themes of social class, virtue, and inner versus outer beauty. The conspicuous absence of jewellery on Jane Eyre emphasises her simplicity and moral fortitude, in stark contrast to the superficial allure of Blanche.
Jewellery in Victorian Poetry
Victorian poetry also reflected the era's fascination with jewellery, often using it as a symbol to explore themes of love, loss, and social status. Elizabeth Barrett Browning's sonnets frequently mention jewellery as a metaphor for love and devotion. In "Sonnets from the Portuguese," she compares her thoughts to a "full jewelled crown," symbolising the richness and value of her inner life and love.
Algernon Charles Swinburne, another prominent Victorian poet, used jewellery imagery in his poetry to explore themes of desire and decadence. His works often feature intricate descriptions of jewels and adornments, mirroring the era's preoccupation with ornate aesthetics and the complexities of human emotions.
Jewellery In Victorian Paintings
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The Changing Faces of Jewellery: From Early to Late Victorian Period
The evolution of jewellery styles during the Victorian era mirrors the broader societal, technological, and artistic changes of the period. Victorian jewellery is typically divided into three distinct phases – the Early, Mid, and Late Victorian periods – each marked by its unique characteristics and influences.
Early Victorian Jewellery (1837-1860): The Romantic Period
The Early Victorian, or the Romantic period, coincided with the early years of Queen Victoria's reign. Jewellery designs from this era were predominantly influenced by the queen's own tastes and the prevalent romantic sentiment in society. The pieces were delicate, often incorporating intricate designs inspired by nature, including flowers, leaves, and birds, symbolising love, innocence, and the beauty of the natural world.
Commonly used materials included gold, as it became more accessible due to new gold discoveries. Precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies were used but in a restrained manner. Motifs of hearts, hands, and eyes were prevalent, often in lockets or brooches, symbolising love and sentimentality. This era also saw the introduction of techniques like cannetille and repoussé, which allowed for more detailed and intricate designs.
Mid-Victorian Jewellery (1860-1880): The Grand Period
The Mid-Victorian, or the Grand period, began around the time of Prince Albert's death in 1861, marking a shift in jewellery styles. Mourning jewellery became highly popular, characterised by the use of black materials like jet, onyx, and black enamel. Lockets and brooches containing hair or portraits of the deceased were common, reflecting the era's preoccupation with mortality and remembrance.
The discovery of gold in Australia also had a significant impact. Jewellery became more opulent and elaborate, featuring larger and more vibrant coloured gemstones. Designs often had historical influences, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Etruscan motifs becoming popular. This period also saw an increased use of different types of gemstones, such as opals and Australian sapphires.
Late Victorian Jewellery (1880-1901): The Aesthetic Period
The Late Victorian, or the Aesthetic period, marked a return to simpler designs, influenced by the Arts and Crafts movement. This movement was a reaction against the industrialisation of the era, advocating for craftsmanship and the beauty of handmade items. Jewellery designs from this period were more whimsical and lighter, often featuring natural motifs but in a more stylised and abstract form.
There was a significant use of inexpensive materials such as glass and enamel, making jewellery more accessible to the growing middle class. The period also saw a revival of ancient techniques like filigree and granulation, reflecting a nostalgia for the past. Pearls became increasingly popular, used in a variety of jewellery pieces.
Influencers of the Victorian Jewellery: Royalty and Celebrities
During the Victorian era, royalty and celebrities played a pivotal role in shaping jewellery trends, their preferences and styles widely emulated by the public. This influence was not limited to the boundaries of Britain but extended across Europe and into the Americas, reflecting the far-reaching impact of these trendsetters.
Queen Victoria: The Royal Trendsetter
Queen Victoria, who reigned from 1837 to 1901, was a major fashion icon of her time, significantly influencing jewellery styles. Her personal tastes and life events had a direct impact on the jewellery of the era. When she ascended to the throne, her preference for intricate, romantic designs featuring flowers, hearts, and bows became popular. These motifs symbolised love and sentimentality, themes that were central to the Early Victorian period.
After her marriage to Prince Albert, Queen Victoria often wore jewellery he designed or gifted her, including the famous sapphire and diamond coronet and the serpent engagement ring. The serpent, symbolising eternity and wisdom, became a popular motif in jewellery. Her love for Albert and the jewellery associated with him shaped public perceptions of romantic and marital symbolism in jewellery.
Following Prince Albert's death in 1861, Queen Victoria's mourning led to a surge in demand for mourning jewellery. Jet, onyx, and black enamel became widely used, and lockets and brooches containing hair or portraits of loved ones became fashionable. This trend was a clear reflection of the queen's personal loss and the era's attitudes towards death and remembrance.
Queen Victoria and her jewellery
Image Source: Royal Watcher Blog
Celebrities and Socialites: Spreading the Trends
Celebrities and socialites of the Victorian era also had a considerable influence on jewellery fashions. Actresses, opera singers, and other high-profile women were often seen and admired in public, their jewellery choices setting trends.
For instance, Lillie Langtry, a British actress and socialite, was known for her lavish and stylish jewellery, which was widely copied. Her use of large, dramatic pieces, often with bold gemstones, reflected the opulence of the Mid-Victorian period. Similarly, Sarah Bernhardt, a French stage actress, influenced trends with her exotic and often avant-garde jewellery choices, introducing Parisian chic to a broader audience.
Lillie Langtry, a British actress and socialite
Image Source: Wikipedia
Cross-Cultural Influences
The influence of these British figures was not confined to their own country. As European royalty and American high society were keenly interested in the British monarchy and its fashion, the trends set by Queen Victoria and British celebrities quickly spread across borders. For example, Empress Eugénie of France, known for her impeccable taste in fashion, often emulated Victorian styles, further influencing European jewellery trends.
In America, wealthy families and social leaders like the Vanderbilts and Astors would often follow the latest European trends, including those set by Queen Victoria and other British celebrities. This led to a blend of Victorian styles with American sensibilities, creating a unique fusion in jewellery design.
Empress Eugénie of France
Image Source: Wikipedia
The Value of Victorian Jewellery Today: Investment and Market Trends
Victorian jewellery, with its rich history and exquisite craftsmanship, is highly valued in today's market, not only for its aesthetic appeal but also as a sound financial investment. The market for Victorian pieces is vibrant, attracting collectors and investors alike who appreciate the unique qualities of jewellery from this era.
Factors Affecting the Value of Victorian Jewellery
Rarity: One of the primary factors that enhance the value of Victorian jewellery is its rarity. Unique pieces, especially those that exhibit exceptional craftsmanship or are from a significant period within the Victorian era, tend to fetch higher prices. Limited edition pieces or those from renowned jewellers of the time are particularly sought after.
Condition: The condition of Victorian jewellery significantly impacts its value. Pieces that have been well-preserved and show minimal signs of wear are more desirable. Originality is key; alterations or repairs can diminish the value unless done expertly.
Provenance: The history and ownership of a piece can greatly increase its value. Jewellery that once belonged to a historical figure or was associated with a significant event in history is particularly valuable. Documentation or provenance that traces the piece’s history adds to its authenticity and allure.
Design and Craftsmanship: The intricacy of the design and the quality of craftsmanship play crucial roles in determining value. Pieces that exemplify the distinctive styles of the Victorian era, such as mourning jewellery or those with romantic motifs, are highly prized.
Gemstones and Materials: The type and quality of gemstones and other materials used in the jewellery affect its value. Pieces featuring high-quality diamonds, sapphires, and other precious stones, as well as those made with gold and platinum, are especially valued.
Discovering More about Victorian Jewellery: Online Resources
The allure of Victorian jewellery extends beyond its immediate aesthetic and historical appeal, inviting enthusiasts to delve deeper into its rich context and heritage. Fortunately, numerous online resources, books, and documentaries are available for those eager to expand their knowledge and appreciation of this fascinating era. Here's a guide to some of the most informative and engaging resources:
Online Websites and Galleries
The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) Website: The V&A in London houses one of the world's most comprehensive collections of Victorian jewellery. Their online platform offers detailed insights into various pieces, along with high-quality images and historical context.
The British Museum Collection Online: Explore an exquisite collection of Victorian jewellery with detailed descriptions and historical background.
Books for Further Reading
7000 Years of Jewellery by Hugh Tait: This book offers an extensive overview of jewellery history, including a section dedicated to the Victorian era.
Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World" by Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe: This comprehensive book provides a detailed look at the jewellery of the Victorian era, placing it within its social and historical context.
Antique Jewellery: Its Manufacture, Materials, and Design by James E. Hickling: Focused more on the technical aspects, this book is a great resource for understanding the craftsmanship behind Victorian jewellery.
Documentaries and Online Videos
The Story of Jewellery by The Jewellery Channel: Available on YouTube, this documentary series covers various eras of jewellery, including the Victorian period.
Secrets of the Museum by BBC Two: This series takes you behind the scenes of the Victoria and Albert Museum, showcasing some of the museum's Victorian jewellery collection.
Lectures and webinars by GIA (Gemological Institute of America): GIA occasionally hosts webinars and lectures on antique jewellery, which are available on their website or YouTube channel.
Conclusion
Whether you're a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, these resources provide a comprehensive view of Victorian jewellery, covering its artistic, historical, and cultural significance. By exploring these websites, books, and documentaries, you can deepen your understanding of the Victorian era and appreciate the timeless beauty and craftsmanship of its jewellery even more.
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